The dark season in Northern Central Finland offers an opportunity to escape the city’s light pollution and hustle and bustle to the wonders of nature.

As twilight falls like a soft blanket over the heart of Finland, Sydänsuomi, something unique comes to life. A period of silence, a blue moment, a dance of stories and northern lights – a time when nature whispers softly but powerfully.

When the sun stays behind the horizon, the stars, emotions and senses brighten. It’s when forests whisper stories, trails invite to hike and frozen lakes provide the perfect platform to move, breathe and experience something timeless.

In the midst of the darkness, silence is not emptiness in Sydänsuomi, but full of life.

Kekri time at Vanhatalo

As autumn progresses towards the time of the kekri, the old Finnish celebration of harvest time, the light begins to fade and the polar night slowly sneaks in.

Kekri is a celebration of both death and new beginnings, just as the darkness and polar night can symbolically be: a dark period when nature retires and man is allowed to rest until the light returns. Kekri is about remembering ancestors, burning fires, sharing food and spending time together.

At Vanhatalo in Pihtipudas kekri is celebrated as in the old days – without the commercial hustle and bustle, amidst the everyday life of livestock farming and the mystery of autumn’s darkness. During the weekend people are fed with foods from the own farm: beef, root vegetables, cabbage and mushrooms, home-made beer and juices. There are spirits of the old folk and fairy tale creatures sitting at the table together with the other guests, as it’s said that during the kekri time the boundaries of the worlds are thin and there’s magic in the air.

The farm’s hostess, Riikka Kananen, got her knowledge of the kekri tradition from her grandparents.

– Kekri is a wonderful tradition. Even in the early 1900s, it was in some places more important than Christmas, says Riikka.

During the kekri time, all the cows on the farm are brought close to the barn, as when the nights get darker, the beasts and predators move around. Otherwise, cows can stay inside the barn or outside in the pasture all year round, as they wish.

Things to do and stories to tell on the Päiväranta farm

The Päiväranta farm is located in Pihtipudas, in the middle of three lakes along the Heinäjoki river. There you can experience the polar night of Sydänsuomi by husky hiking, pony trekking or in the gentle sauna. At dusk of the evening, you can spot a flurry of bats or, in winter frosts, watch the northern lights above the icy lakes. The farm’s animals – Siberian huskies, pony, horses, cats, sheep and angora cats – are waiting to be petted, and in the craft workshop you can try felting and make canvas prints or candles under the guidance of an artisan.

Darkness brings with it peace, calmness and a very special atmosphere – and Päiväranta serves it with local food, homely hospitality and stories from history.

– We have stories from centuries ago, even as far back as the 14th century, reveals farm hostess Marjut Rinne

The enchantment of whitewater

Autumn also brings hunting. Ville Varis, entrepreneur of Erävaris, sees hunting as a traditional and deeply cultural way of spending time in nature, exploring trails and working as a team.

– You can also go to the forest with a camera. For example, to photograph sea eagles or crowing birds. The experience is not about potential prey but about understanding the nature and being present, says Ville.

Hikers and hunters will find their autumn and winter oasis in the village of Kymönkoski in Viitasaari, on the banks of Leppäsenkoski by the rapids, where Erävaris offers log cabin accommodation and a variety of activities and wilderness guiding.

Dark flowing water, snow-covered rocks and ice formations make the rapids an almost fairytale-like scene in winter – and when the frosts deepen, the view can be breathtaking.

– On snowshoe hikes, you might see a white-throated dipper diving or even otter on the rocks.

In winter, you can also go hiking or ice climbing, or pause for a “moment of silence” in a symbolic ritual that combines the magic of nature, drumming and prediction based on the stars. Ville learned his astrology from his grandfather.

On snowy paths with dogs

One safe and at the same time exotic way to enjoy the natures polar night experiences in Sydänsuomi is to join a herd of Suomäki howlers. Occasional tourists and city dwellers without more serious wilderness experience are also warmly welcomed.

– I organise small-scale husky safaris and also hikes in wool socks and snowshoes. You can go hiking with or without dogs, says Sonja Kinnunen, a local nurse and recent tourism entrepreneur from Kinnula.

She paints an image of a night hike on snowy paths under a starry sky, when you don’t even need a flaslight because the moon enlightens the scenery. The woolen socks made by grandma or great-grandma warm the feet, and as you move quietly on the paths, the mind settles down as if by itself. The nearest streetlights are miles away, and the soundscape consists mainly of dogs pawing.

At the end of the trip, a cup of coffee is served over a campfire.

– Darkness is not an obstacle, but an opportunity. It gives you a different sense of presence, your senses are sharpened and you can sense the nature around you with particular intensity. Everyday life is forgotten. Dogs also help you to forget the daily routine, she says.

A break away from the daily grind

Karkausmäen Kammari is a small guesthouse that radiates peace and relaxed atmosphere in the middle of the forest in Kinnula. Its five rooms, wood-fired sauna and hot tub create a cosy setting for slowing down – or even for a little romantic getaway.

– You can certainly have your privacy here. There are no neighbours around, says Jenni Numminen, who runs the guesthouse, laughing.

The silence is soothing in the old log house, and at night the house is warmed by the glow of the fireplace. The lodge overlooks nearby Lake Karkausjärvi.

If you want to include outdoor activities and nature in your romantic getaway, Karkausmäki offers easy access to the Peura Trail hiking trail or Salamajärvi National Park.

– In a national park you can even meet a Finnish forest reindeer, as the largest population of this species in Finland lives here, says Jenni.

Karkausmäki also focuses on culinary experiences, even though the guesthouse does not have its own restaurant. This is done in cooperation with the nearby game restaurant Pikku Peura.

– Dinner will be prepared by Marja Hakkarainen from Pikku Peura, and the food will be made from local game and fish. We often have pike perch from the neighbouring Lake Kivijärvi or beef from the Riihelä farm. We also make use of the wild food from the local forest.

At both Karkausmäki Chamber and Little Deer, sustainability is important and is taken into account in all activities. Both have Grey Key and Sustainable Travel Finland (STF) certificates.

The article is carried out as part of the Sydänsuomi Nature Tourism Growth Program, a project funded by the European Union and managed by the Central Finland Regional Council. The project is administered by the development company Karstulanseutu Oy.

Also read the first and second parts of the article series Mysterious Sydänsuomi and Healers’ Sydänsuomi.